Garfagnana

The region has no great buildings or master works of art, but the valleys leading off either side of the upper Sérchio Valley are renowned for their wild and unadulterated natural beauty.

Some extraordinary destinations are The Orecchiella Natural Park, the Wind Cave, the Hermitage in Calomini, the Duomo in the medieval village of Barga, the Spa in Bagni di Lucca and the Devil Bridge in Borgo a Mozzano.

The remote and mountainous Garfagnana region remained isolated from the mainstream events between 1115, when the Countess Matilda died, bequeathing her feudal domain to the pope, and the 19th century when it became part of Tuscany.

From Lucca, driving north, you can reach the Serchio Valley and the mountainous region of Garfagnana through the Via Lodovica (on the right side of the river Serchio) or through the Via del Brennero (on the left).

Drive north to Barga and then when you reach Castelvecchio Páscoli follow the signs north to Castelnuovo di Garfagnana.

The main town of the upper Sérchio Valley is dominated by the 12th century Rocca which controlled the mountain road connecting Genoa and Lucca.

It is worth making the long and winding 32km drive northeast from Castelnuovo to the Monastery of San Pellegrino in Alpe for the outstanding scenery and an informative museum of peasant life in the Garfagnana.

Follow the SS445 north signposted Aulla, and turn left after 8km, following the signs for Vagli di Sopra. The ancient mountain hamlet of Vagli di Sopra stands close to the man-made Lago di Vagli. The village of Fabbriche was inundated when the lake was dammed and can sometimes be seen in the water’s depths. The landscape has a rugged beauty; the views stretch north to Monte Pisanino, the highest peak in the Apuan alps at 1, 945 meters and the whole surrounding landscape is protected as a National Park.

Also starting from Castelnuovo, take the first right at the entrance to the town, signposted to Massa. After 17 km, turn right for Arni. Arni is noted for the curious geological formations called the Marmitte dei Giganti, the Giants’ Cooking Pots, great hollows scoured by the swirling waters of the Túrrite Secca. Some of the craters are 20 meters across and it is possible to climb to the bottom.

Nearby, the road to Carrara continues through the Galleria del Cippollaio, a tunnel carved through the marble heart of the mountain.

From Castelvecchio Páscoli drive south toward Borgo a Mazzano. After 12 km, leave the main road following signs for Gallicano, passing through the village on the Grotta del Vento road, which climbs alongside the Túrrite di Garfagnana mountain stream for 8 km.

The Grotta del Vento or Cave of the Winds is just one of the great networks of caverns that riddle the heart of the Apuan Alps.

Also, south of Castelvecchio Páscoli is the lovely town of Barga. It stands above the modern town of Fornaci di Barga, on the main road SS445. Barga was astute enough to maintain its independence until 1341, when it decided to link its fortunes with Florence. At the very top of town stands Barga’s chief monument, its cathedral, begun in the year 1000 on a terrace, with a panoramic view over the rooftops and the surrounding green hills juxtaposed with the bare white marble mountains. Built of blonde stone called alberese di Barga, its square façade is discreetly decorated with a shallow pattern, charming reliefs and two leering lions; on the other side the campanile is incorporated into the church; over the portal, there’s a relief of a feast scene with a king and dwarfs. There’s yet another dwarf inside, supporting one of the red marble pillars of the pulpit by the idiosyncratic 13th century Como sculptor, Guido Bigarelli. The rest of Barga is photogenic ensemble of archways and little palazzi piled on top of eachother with walls, gates and a ravine planted with kitchen gardens.