This Christmas Eve custom is generally a southern Italian tradition. How it originated and what it includes seems to vary.
Christmas Eve is a vigilia di magro or a day of abstinence in which the Catholic Church prohibits the consumption of meat. Although less observed now, in the past it meant that everyone would crowd the fish market on Christmas Eve to prepare for a feast of seven fishes.
Caròla Francesconi, the author of "La Cucina di Napoli" writes that the traditional meal should include:
Drowned broccoli rabe (also known as Christmas Broccoli)
A choice of:
Vermicelli Aglio e Olio
Vermicelli with Anchovies
Vermicelli with Clams and tomatoes
Roasted or fried eel, followed by other fish dishes of choice, which could range from humble baccalà to baked fish or lobster.
A refreshing caponata di pesce (fish salad) to complete the main courses.
Christmas desserts: paste reali, susamielli, rococò and mustacciuoli, sometimes accompanied by nut crunch.
And finally, dried fruit (dates, figs, nuts, and la collana del prete (the priest's necklace), chestnuts strung together.
Three theories on where the idea of seven fishes originated:
The Seven Sacraments of the Catholic Church - baptism, penance, Holy Eucharist, confirmation, marriage, holy orders and the sacrament of the sick.
The seven sins of the world - pride, envy, anger, gluttony, sloth, lust and greed.
The seven days it took Mary and Joseph to travel to Bethlehem.
Some say it's the seven hills of Rome, the seven winds of Italy, or the Seven Wonders of the World
Incidentally, many Italian families will serve many more than seven fish. Some families prepare up to 21 types of various preparations.


Dear Joanne,
You may want to try these booksellers:
Ben Kinmont Bookseller
83 Murray St.
Manhattan.
p. 212-964-7132
European cookbooks from 1840.
http://www.kinmont.com
Bonnie J. Slotnick Cookbooks
163 West 10th St.
near 7th ave.
Greenwich Village
Manhattan
p.212-989-8962
f.212-989-8102
3, 000 vintage, rare and out of print cookbooks for sale.
bonnieslotnickbooks@earthlink.net
Kitchen Arts & Letters
1435 Lexington Ave.
Manhattan
p.+(212)-876-5550
Stocks more than 600 foreign cookbooks.
Buon Natale!
james
Do you know if this book is sold in the States?----Caròla Francesconi, "La Cucina di Napoli"
My husband would like to bring this tradition back to our family celebration of Christmas
thank you.